Redirects (also known as devations or redirections) are a stripped down version of a rebelay. They’re faster and easier to cross, but also don’t create a new pitch (so can’t be considered anchors, and can’t be fully weighted by a caver). To pass them:
GOING DOWN-
- Abseil down until you are level with the redirect anchor or slightly above it (depending on the positioning of the redirect). Lock your descender off.
1.5 You can optionally clip your SHORT cowstail into the redirect if you’re worried about loosing grip on it, or it is a very awkward redirect. However, be aware that you should aim to NEVER loose grip on the redirect, as it could be protecting you from some serious hazards (or protecting the cave from a serious hazard- you).
- Grasp the loop of the redirect with both hands, with the thumbs facing you. One should be at the base of the redirect karabiner, and the other (your stronger arm) as close to the anchor as you can get.
- Use the karabiner-hand to manipulate the rope out of the karabiner and hold the gate open. DO NOT let go of the redirect.
- Pull on the loop with both hands to swing yourself in towards the anchor. Use your anchor-arm to do most of the pulling, and use the karabiner-arm to clip the karabiner back around the rope ABOVE your descender once you have pulled yourself close enough. If you got your position wrong, you may need to abseil a bit lower.
- Remove your full lock, and continue down the rope.
GOING UP-
- Prusik up until you are just below the karabiner of the redirect. Keep prusiking, pushing the karabiner up as you go.
- When the cord/rope/tape/chain attaching the karabiner to its anchor is nearly (but not completely at) fully stretch, grasp the loop with both hands as you did going down, and remover the karabiner from the rope. Depending on the loop, it is sometimes possible to do this one handed. Once again, DO NOT let go of the redirect.
- Clip the redirect around the rope below your lowest ascender. Continue prusiking up the rope as you were previously.